Archive for October, 2009

Liu Bao 六寶

Thursday, October 29th, 2009
Liu Bao tea that has been aging in the 1kg basket.

Liu Bao tea that has been aging in the 1kg basket.

Lets talk about Liu Bao 六寶.  It is a tea grown in Guangxi 廣西 in Guangdong province 廣東省. Looking at the spent leaves you will notice that they are bigger than oolong or green tea leaves. They come from a large leaf varietal of camellia sinensis.

The basic processing steps are that tea leaves are picked in the spring as green tea leaves and withered. The next step is the kill green process; the farmer will use a steam process or a wok process similar to the Dragonwell kill green processing. The tea is bruised by crushing the leaves; then the leaves are set aside to rest and reabsorb the juices from their crushing.  This is the oxidation step in the processing of this tea. A second crushing of the leaves is executed after the resting period for further oxidation. The next step is the roasting of the tea until it is 90% dry and only 10% of the moisture remains.  It is not roasted for flavor, or color, rather to dehydrate the leaves.  Then the tea is stuffed into a big basket and simultaneously it is steamed to soften the leaves, so that the processor can stuff in as much tea into the basket as possible: up to a volume of approximately 25 kilos. The basket is then turned upside down to dry for about two years in protected storage conditions.

Liu Bao Box

The end product weighs about 40-50 Chinese  jin ( 20-25 kilograms). The basket can be kept in storage for longer than two years until there is an interested buyer which would necessitate breaking the basket open. When there is a buyer, the farmer will open the basket and transfer the tea to 20 smaller one kilogram baskets. This tea is then transferred to the market in this 1 kilo baskets.  In the past, this tea was sold in only one kilogram baskets, but now we see Liu Bao tea in tuo cha shape, cake shape, and loose. Some of these teas have grades specified on it; they will range between grade one though four. Grade one are the smallest leaves, grade 4 are the largest.

Liu  Bao Tea printed on the one side of the basket

Liu Bao Tea printed on the one side of the basket

Top of Basket

There are a lot of brands of Liu Bao in China but the one many people know is called Three Cranes Brand. Here is a picture of the logo.  Liu Bao is a delicious tea to brew, and can brew as many times as a good aged Puerh. It is silkier than Puerh, a bit more refined, and because of it’s growing area and the surrounding pine trees, it has a pine-y taste that develops as the tea ages.  Liu Bao also has an “old taste” – meaning of camphor to it, but it is a more delicate camphor note than in Puerh.  Our 1994 Liu Bao has notes of camphor and is very sweet, our 1996 Liu Bao is more pine-y and has higher drier notes. Our 1980’s Liu Bao is breathtaking, and a tea to savor. It has notes of mahogany, woodsmoke and cocoa nibs.  It is exquisitely smooth and an extremely limited edition, truly an ethereal experience.

3 Crane Brand

Looking deeper into Chinese Black Teas

Friday, October 23rd, 2009

Recently I read an article on puerh tea in Time magazine that talked about investing in puerh tea, but there are many other teas worth investing in. Then, I began to think about all the other tea in the black tea category; by black tea I mean tea that has been fully fermented. In this category there are three well known teas: of course Puerh, but also Liu Bao, and Liu An. I will introduce the teas in this post and then follow with three more posts about each tea in detail.

The Chinese black tea category is defined as tea that is fully fermented. For the purpose of this post I will leave out the green puerh and younger puerh and focus on cooked and aged puerh.

People wonder what are the varietal, processing, and packaging differences between these three teas because not much is known or written about them.

Liu Bao 六寶 is a tea grown in Guangdong province 廣東省. This tea is produced in an area outside of Guang Xi 廣西 called Wu Chau 梧州. Liu Bao has been produced for over 200 years.  This tea is aged like puerh:  it is smooth and with age the tea aroma changes to camphor, pine, or beetle nut aroma. This is a great alternative to puerh because it has all the aroma, smoothness, and chi of puerh, but without the “barnyard” quality because of it’s unique processing.

Liu An 六安 is from  An Hui province 安徽省. This tea is produced in an area called Liu An 六安. The most famous brand for this tea is Shun Yi Sun 孫義順. Many people think  Liu An area only makes green tea, but this is a special tea that is fermented.

Puerh 普洱 is a tea grown in Yunnan Province 雲南省. There are many locations, brands, formulations, shapes, and sizes of this tea. We can talk more about it in the post about puerh tea which will be posted in a couple of weeks.

The obvious difference between these teas is the location place that it is grown, but there is more to it than that.  In the following post we are going to talk about each teas varietal, processing and packaging in more depth so stay tuned.